A Man With a Car Named Fred

I got up today, packed, and headed down to breakfast. Afterwards I said goodbye to everyone before Martin drove me the hour back to the airstrip.


I was fresh out of Whistler Blackcomb hats so this trip I was wearing my La Colombe hat, as the only coffee I have been drinking was what Todd Carmichael brought to the U.S. from Uganda. So it was fitting that on the way back we passed coffee beans drying.


Along the way we stopped at this village, which was one of the few places to fill up on petro.






What I thought at the time was the local motorcycle gang. Turns out this is just the taxi stand.




Yup, it’s just me, and Yup, I’m ready to go.


It was about an hour flight to Kasese, we landed on the grass strip, the pilot gave me my pack and then took off. I looked around and saw no one. There was a building which I took for the airstrip hut, went in to go to the bathroom, and then looked for someone, this place was empty. As I walked out some guy pulled up in an unmarked car. At Kihihi, Martin showed up in a land cruiser that had Mahogany Springs painted on the side so at least it looked official. This guy had some two door beat up vehicle that I could not identify the make and model, and his name was Fred. At the time I was not sure how to pronounce the name of the lodge I was going to so I pulled out my paper work and Fred told me yes that was where he would take me. I was still confused as to whether this was my driver from the lodge or just some guy with a car that I would have to pay later if he got me at all close to my destination. With no other options I put my pack in the trunk and got in to the passenger seat. I was a little relieved to see a Uganda tourism sticker on the windshield, however it expired in 2013. I was a little more chatty than normal as I was trying to feel this guy out and decide if I made a good choice or not. We passed a school along the way and they all waved. I was unsure if it was a hello wave or a goodbye wave.




After 45 minutes or so Fred turned off the main road and I saw a sign that said Ndali Lodge, which was awesome because that was where I wanted to go. I first thought, this is good, if everything goes bad now I can probably figure out a way to still get there. Then a second thought kicked in, what’s wrong with me, Fred has been friendly and we are going where I want to go. Just because he drives an old beat up car I go in to defense mode. I forget that this is just how it is done in Uganda, everyone I have met here have been friendly and helpful. I have traveled the world and experienced amazing things, yet I have failed somehow to shed my prejudice. We got to the lodge and I checked in, then went to unlock my bungalow.


This was my kind of place, no electricity, but beautiful accommodations and now that I’m getting older the much appreciated hot water. I was glad to have three fully charged batteries for both my cameras.






And when it comes time to flush get a firm grip on the zebra and give a tug. There’s a joke in there someplace just some assembly required.


Ndali lodge sits on the rim of an old volcano which has now has a lake inside.




And the best part about Ndali lodge is its dogs. As a huge dog lover I quickly bonded with Pati.


Great bar. Really had that old British explorer vibe.


I had some time this afternoon so I decided to walk down to the local village.




Clearly they did not get many unaccompanied white people walking through their village as they all asked if I “was on my own” and “where did I need to go”. Wanting to help me out. I told them I was from Ndali lodge and could point to it up on the volcano ridge, and that I was just walking around exploring. Which seemed to take them by surprise as most don’t leave the lodges and when they do it is on some tour with a guide.




I came across these kids next to a man drying out his maize that he was preparing to take to market the next day or so, around 4 kilometers from here.




On the way back I passed the school and got a lesson in astronomy just by passing by their classroom.


Once back I enjoyed the views with a Nile Special, well, who am I kidding, I had a few Nile Specials.






I then meet Boti, who was either a large dog or a small horse.




I spotted this guy before I finished my beer and headed down to the lake.


Pati and Boti came with me down to the lake, and while I was told I could go for a dip I decided to remain dry.




I got back and confirmed that I would have hot water for a shower in the dark that tonight.


I headed to dinner and Boti started without me.


We ate by candle light and just as the gorillas brought me back to a time I forgot, this lodge also brought me back to another time I forgot. In today’s crazy world it’s not only good to know these kind of places still exist, but even better to experience them.


The owners joined me for dinner as I was the only guest at the lodge tonight. They were very down to earth and cool people to hang out with. He told me how his father built the lodge years ago and then gave it to him when he passed away. So mom and dad if you are still searching for that last minute stocking stuffer this year, hinty, hint, hint. After diner I headed to my room with Pati close behind.


I tried to get her inside but she had clearly been trained against it, which might be for the best, I would hate to cheat on Koda.


So instead I covered her with a towel to keep warm tonight.


I then began to “turn on” the lights.






Over the years a number of people have asked how am I able to remember and recall everything in detail for my blog. The simple answer is I don’t. I write it down so I don’t have to remember. I have a little black book that I write in each night to capture the day’s events and later jog my memory when it comes time to creating my travel blog. I cannot imagine a better place to journal today’s events then in a bungalow on the rim of a now dormant volcano that has no electricity, writing by candle light, on an old colonial desk, with a glass of red wine to the right. Even though today was nothing more then a travel day it was still amazing.

VIDEO: Uganda - Day 4 - Ndali Lodge