The Dead Vlei is Actually a Real Place

I got up early this morning ready to again break their recommendation about not driving when it is dark out. Once again the stars were amazing and you could even spot a few satellites passing over. While it would be scorching hot during the day it was freezing cold at night, so I put on my jacket and turned on the heat in the car. As I began my one hour drive to the Namib-Naukluft park I was violently shaking, either from the cold or from the road conditions, I’m not sure which one. At the park entrance I paid the price for a U.S. citizen to enter and then waited for them to open the gate as it is only open sunrise to sunset. It was another 30 minutes from the gate to the dunes and they started to emerge from the ground as I approached.






Along the way I stopped to get out and check the sand. It’s red because this is the oldest desert in the world, around 80 million years old, and the iron has started to oxidize.




I then came across Namibia’s most iconic image, dune 45. It’s called this because it is 45 kilometers from the entrance gate.




This area is frequently referred to as Sossusvlei, however that is incorrect. The whole area is called the Namib-Naukluft Park. Vlei means shallow lake or marsh area and in the park there are three Vlei(s), Sossusvlei, Ostrich Vlei (sometimes called Hidden Vlei), and Dead Vlei. I have no idea why there is not a space in Sossusvlei when there is one in Ostrich Vlei and Dead Vlei.




I then found some oryx and boy do they look tasty.






I had a two wheel drive and the last couple of kilometers require a four wheel drive so I would be parking and catching the shuttle. Here I would find the worst shuttle system in the world. They just kind of run whenever they feel like it, so you might be waiting in the parking lot for 30 minutes or so. But that is nothing compared to the return trip in which you could easily wait over an hour, and many of us made the long walk back. Boy with all this exercise today I can double up on my Windhoek lager tonight.


In front of me was “Big Daddy”, the tallest sand dune in the world around 330 meters or about 1100 feet.


I began the hike to the top.




About half way up I got my first glimpse of the Dead Vlei, the very reason I came to Namibia.




What was once a marsh is now nothing more then a salt pan.




I ran down the dune in to Dead Vlei and by the time I was at the bottom I was two pounds heavier then when I started. That was because this sand was so fine that no matter how tight you tied your shoes it found its way in, and a lot of it found its way in.


This place was surreal and if you told me I was abducted by aliens and they took me to their planet I would have believed you without question. No way this place exists on earth, it’s so foreign to me, so foreign to my perception, and it challenges reality. I only wish it could be captured digitally because right now you can only truly appreciate it by being here and experiencing it.


I’ve said this before but the simplest things in life have the most profound meaning. Blue skies, white ground, red dunes, and black trees, nothing more. But it’s all that is needed, you struggle to understand and are so appreciative to be here, a place you once thought was nothing more than a movie set. I wonder if Jennifer Lopez is still around here someplace.




Not many people know about this place and before I left many asked why was I going to Namibia. I can now answer them with “So I can take over 200 pictures of dead trees, oh and also search for Jennifer Lopez”. With no sign of Jenny, here are some cool pictures of dead trees.






A little over 900 years ago the sand dunes shifted and blocked the water source, the trees died and were left to scorch in the sun.






Because it is not well known there are not a lot of people here and there is an eerie silence that adds to the experience.










While the trees are not actually petrified they do not decompose because the wood is so dry.










Once again I was overcome with emotion. What started with a simple trip to the movies has manifested itself in reality.










It was quickly starting to get hot so I snapped a few more pictures before heading back.
















This is Sossusvlei and these are what the trees looked like before the water supply was cut off.




Before I left the park I also checked out Sesriem Canyon, which is nice to see if you are in the area but otherwise not worth stopping.




After the short hike through the canyon I headed back to the lodge fully satisfied with another amazing day. I filled up the car with petro as I wanted to get an early start in the morning on my six hour drive to Swakopmund. At this point it was like I never read that section about driving when it is dark out.

VIDEO: Namibia - Day 16 - Deadvlei